the Tannery

On Monday we revisited the Medina, and stayed much of the day. Often having no idea where we were headed, each time we went through a doorway – I simply followed along expectantly. This time we climbed up and up a tiled spiral stairwell… and up … and up. About half way to the top they asked, “How is the smell for you? We offer mint leaves to sniff if you need them.” I honestly couldn’t imagine what that statement was foreshadowing the conclusion of this assent to be.

When we reached the top we entered a showroom of leather goods (sheep, cow, and camel hide). Glorious, rich colors blanketed the walls in the form of bags, coats, belts, wallets, and more. The smell was not only strong – but I wondered why it didn’t quite smell like the leather coat section at our local department store back home. As we moved to the back of the store – a half wall revealed a view all the way back down to where our initial climb began. Peaking over the wall, I was absolutely astonished at what I saw. On roof tops for blocks- an elaborate system of drying and dying the fresh hides of animals preparing to be manipulated into the merchandise that hung all around us.

The following is a statement from a brief description of what the tannery is and does: “Fez is the center of the Moroccan leather industry. Tanning hides may be dirty and smelly work but someone has to do it. This job is not for the faint of heart, a difficult chore requiring strength and endurance. The products from the tannery are products to be proud of but few will know the journey the skin they adorn went through. Much of the tannery odor comes from pigeon droppings. Pigeon droppings contain ammonia that softens the skin making the skin become like a piece of cloth.”

What encouraged me as I moved through the Medina and was exposed to many of the Moroccan trades was how many opportunities for work that were available for the people. These people may be considered “poor” by an American standard, but most really are not. They have trades and many means with which to obtain the staples of life. However, as the western influence bleeds into life even just outside the walls of this ancient city, some of these trades are in less demand. Life is physical here, redundant and not “comfortable”, but it is creative and beautiful. Sadly… it is also quite lost and heavily ingrained in religious tradition and superstition.

Check out pictures in an album labeled “the Tannery” on my facebook page. I will attempt to describe more of the trades of the Medina in the weeks to come! (more pictures have been added to "Doors & Floors of the Medina" as well. Enjoy!)