and finally, The Islamic Faith

My time here is wrapping up in the next few days, and while I have spoken much of the indefinable culture, the trades, and the diversity in the Medina and the New City – with my simple, American observation of Morocco, none of those things are of first impression. No, the most prominent and all encompassing element of this nation is that it is through and through Islamic. That dictates how the day is lived, what foods are eaten, how one greets another, the language that is infused into that greeting, the way compliments are given, what days are set aside, how one is dressed, and on and on… You might think that is not unusual for a religion to affect all aspect of one’s life, rather it is the way it should be. Indeed. But what is unusual is that the entire nation operates under what has been laid out in the Koran. In fact, most recently in 1999, King Mohammad VI, worked to ensure that the secular and the religious continue in this heavily interwoven system. From the minute one steps onto Moroccan soil, you are very aware of the totality of its influence.

The five daily prayers form part of the five obligations or “pillars,” of Islam that are incumbent on Muslims, and the reminder to pray (or the Call to Prayer) resounds throughout the nation 5 times each day. From the 300 Mosques in the 300 communities of the Fes Medina alone, to those in the New city, to even small villages you see outside of the city’s limits- this reminder to worship bellows from the tall Minarets. The faithful come to the mosque for the midday prayers that are said every Friday, their holy day, in worship of "Allah" (God). The city will be much quieter during this hour, as businesses shut down and many people make their way to the Mosque. An interesting side note: Sundays here are similar to Sundays in America as recently as 15-20 years ago, with businesses closed or hours shortened. This has nothing to do with the Islamic religion, but rather is a reflection of the French occupation.

While this originally stirred in me an awe of sorts in how the nation reflects together on these pillars of faith -allowing it to affect the productivity of a business (what an American perspective, eh?), unabashedly announcing praise to God from loud speakers – reminding each other of the community of believers that they are… there is much about it that is unsettling. The call itself is haunting (listen below). There is ONE Moroccan couple that I know that does not follow the Islamic faith, and I actually see them cringe at the sounding of the Call to Prayer. I asked them about this and their answer was significant. In so many words, they said to me, “think about how much they are reminded. How many times a day, then how many times a week, then how many times a month, then how many times a year…. And yet the reminder is still needed ….” If I can develop that thought – the reminder is still needed because in there is no life change, no redemption. The reminder is still needed because there is no relationship with God only obligation. Obligation to do, obligation not to do, obligation to “earn favor,” and significant obligation motivated by superstition ... all with no assurance of acceptance by God. No hope.

It of course doesn’t take long to love people, and there are some here I love dearly. The shoe repair man who has looked out for me and tried to teach me a little more Arabic, our favorite Hannut owner, the wonderful woman who comes to the apartment to help my sister with some of what makes life here much harder, the people at the gym, the teenage girl in the apartment below ours, some of those who live on the street that Masiey and I bring bread to and spend time with, this couple I mentioned above. I’ve been here just long enough that I run into people I know around town, and I’ve learned just enough Arabic to greet them properly and exchange pleasantries. It has been a true privilege to live here for the past three months and my heart aches for these that I’ve begun to love - following a god they cannot know, performing tasks that earn them nothing - all with the sincerity of childlike faith. The Bible, the very one that they read (but in light of the Koran), says that their faith is in a lie. Pray for the lost in Morocco.

That’s it from Fes… next posting (despite blog title) from Hungary. (in sha allah! “Lord willing”)

Here is audio of the Call to Prayer. I wasn't going for anything with the visual here, but what i captured is interesting enough to include. We were walking through the markets of Feshaded: